You aren’t afraid to say “no” when it’s necessary.
You care for others, but not at the expense of your own well-being.
You aren’t afraid to end toxic relationships, or relationships you’ve outgrown.
You’re able to let go of the things you can’t control, and focus on what you can.
You give up trying to control or change other people. You are able to “detach with love”. You know that it’s not your responsibility to change them.
You are able to pick your battles. You are able to discern what’s important to you, what’s urgent and what can be dealt with at a later time, what this approach and that approach will realistically accomplish, etc.
You understand the difference between forgiveness and reconciliation, and you know when an apology is sincere and when it’s not.
You are patient, but not at the expense of your own well-being. You don’t let people string you along with excuses and empty promises.
You don’t react, you respond.
You ask for help when you need it.
You make sure that when you help others, you’re really helping them and not enabling them.
You have a strong set of morals and values, and you don’t compromise on them.
You choose your own life path, even if it means disappointing some people, such as your parents.
You take care of your body, but at the same time, you don’t loathe your body as it is now. You eat healthy, but you don’t let your diet make you crazy, or assign moral value to food (or to yourself for eating those foods).
You might not be thrilled when you get rejected. (I honestly don’t know anyone who would be.) But you are able to accept that, and not chase after or berate the person who rejected you.
You don’t tolerate bullying or gossip. You have no room in your life for drama.
You don’t participate in other people’s drama.
You stop people-pleasing.
Lack of planning on someone else’s part is not an emergency on yours.
You take responsibility for yourself, but not for other people.
You stop making excuses for other people, or covering for them.
You know that if your marriage or relationship fails, it doesn’t mean that you are a failure.
You’re able to let little things go. And you keep it in perspective: you know what is a little thing you can let go, and what’s something you need to put your foot down about.
You don’t let yourself be pigeonholed into roles you aren’t suited for or don’t want to play because of your gender or what have you.
You are your real, authentic self in your relationships, not playing a role.
You know that relationships are a two-way street. And while you realize that no relationship is ever going to be a perfect 1:1 ratio of give and take all the time, it also shouldn’t be one person doing all the giving and the other doing all the taking.
You don’t feel exhausted, drained, or resentful, because you are able to set strong boundaries.
You stop letting fear of rejection or abandonment have power over you.
You are able to express your needs and feelings, and to know what those needs and feelings are in the first place.
You give yourself time to rest and recharge.
You give yourself as much respect and care as you give to others.
I’ve created a list of list of possible issues that can cause the Anycubic MEGA S and Chiron to randomly stop during printing.
- Loose connectors
- Bad thermistors
- Corrupted SD card file system
- Failing SD card reader board
- Broken wiring
Symptoms often include:
- A random (heartbreaking) print fail.
- Your printer will sound it’s power up chime. (Then you sing a four letter aria that would make Pavarotti proud.)
- When attempting to manually move the print head or build plate you get an error message, “The Machine is running, please try again later.”
- An inevitable power cycle to regain gantry control to unbury the print head from the 90% completed garden gnome sized baby yoda you were printing for your grandma.
- General disgust.
You’ll notice most of the connectors on your Anycubic printer have blobs of hot glue on them.. this struck me as odd until I watched this YouTube video about similar random print fails. The hot glue acts as a lock minimizing the chance of connector back out. I was really surprised to see the temp sensor for the heated bed glued to the mother board. If you’ve purchased your Chiron recently, you’ll also see the hot end data/power cable is cinched to the cage using a zip tie locking it in place.
Loose connector resolution:
Pretty straight forward. You simply go connector to connector checking to see if they’re seated and tight. If you’re feeling frisky you can add reinforcing hot glue.
Thermistors are used in the hot bed and heater block as part of the feedback loop that keeps the printer on task. If the thermistor fails, gives bad data, or gets disconnected the print head will halt immediately and the hot end cooling fan will kick on full speed. I think it does that so it can’t hear me cussing. “T0 sensor abnormal”
Hot bed thermistor Resolution:
To test if your hot bed thermistor is causing problems, you can turn off the heated bed in your slicer and run a few test prints. If the intermittent fail goes away, you’ve got your culprit (and hopefully a bunch of double sided tape). In the case of my Mega S, my print would fail at 3 hrs out (randomly), then 1 hour, then during the skirt print, then it just wouldn’t start. Anycubic customer support recommended turning off the hot bed and sure enough it printed to completion. Anycubic will work with you to get the bed replaced or you can learn more about replacing the hotbed thermistor here: https://youtu.be/UEfxie6aVtw
Heater block thermistor resolution:
The easiest solution is to install the spare hot end that came with your Anycubic.
Heater thermistor combos are not that expensive if you’re comfortable splicing wiring. 24V 100KΩ NTC3950 Thermistor & Ceramic Cartridge Heater 12V 40W. Consider using thermal paste when installing your thermistor and ceramic heater cartridge.
Corrupted SD card file system:
The file system on your SD card has become corrupt or you have a memory failure going on.
Corrupted SD card file system resolution:
Reformat your SD card using fat32 for the file system or try a new SD Card.
Failing SD card reader board:
So it’s possible (rare) the SD card reader daughter board is acting up and causing intermittent failures.
Failing SD card reader board resolution:
Remove the SD card from your printer and plug a USB cable from your Anycubic to your PC to run the print directly from your slicer. (At the time of this writing I was literally 15min from completion on a 7hr Cura/PC to Chiron test print (1 of 3) to determine if my SD card reader is flaking out. Just one of the reasons I decided to make this list.)
In my experience broken wiring normally affects the hot bed where the power and thermistor wiring come off the bed and begin running down the Chiron frame. They really need a cable plug assembly mounted to the bed that reduces stress on this cable and allows you to simply unplug the connector from the bed to replace or service it. You could build it into the bed clamp assembly for added strength.
Broken wiring resolution:
Shoot a pic to Anycubic customer support and they’ll work with you on getting it replaced. OR if your handy with a soldering iron and heat shrink tubing, the fix is straight forward.
Anycubic Mega S and Chiron upgrades to make your printer a reliable workhorse (paid links):
Left handed all aluminum Bowden extruder. (left handed on Anycubic printers)
After you get tired of the cheap metal axle sleeve wearing out on the Titan extruders. This is real fun to diagnose by the way since it doesn’t appear as a catastrophic failure at first. Your prints just start coming out ugly. Anycubic chose to use weak extruder motors and then gear up to compensate. One of the sketchier Achilles heels on the Chiron. When changing from a stock extruder to a 1:1 extruder you will need to change the estep values. A stock Titan extruder is set around 405.. I would recommend setting the 1:1 all aluminum to 100 to start with then calibrate from there.
Read about chaining and calibrating estep values for Anycubic extruders here.
Silicon heating block sock
Don’t eva… eva…eva..eva… run your printer without a heating block sock. Just asking for trouble if you do.
Anti Backlash Spring Loaded Nut & Flexible Couplings
The T8 brass nut that mounts to the frame needs 4xM3 Threads to mount OEM on the Chiron.
The flexible couplers are 5mm to 8mm.
Pro tip: There’s a little screw on top of the worm gear caps on the Chiron that allow you to take the cover off. This makes extracting the worm gear muuuch easier… you don’t have to remove the cover.. but it’s waaay easier once you do.
TMC2208 Stepper Motor Driver set for quiet operation an reliability.
When the stock motor drivers fail you get print drift. Irritating but not too bad.. unless it’s your Z axis driver.. bad things man bad things. I replace the stepper motor drivers on any new anycubic printer I get right out of the box. Noise reduction is a huge benefit here too.
Lately Wordfence Two-factor authentication has been flakier than a country biscuit on my e-commerce site. The only suggestion from wordfence technical support I’ve found online is that it “might be a conflict with another plug-in”.
Here’s a quick remedy to get logged in.
FTP to your host account
rename your wordfence directory wordfence1. This will disable the plugin and allow you to log in.
Once logged in and back on your dashboard, rename your wordfence plugin back to wordfence via FTP. Reload your dashboard.
Goto Wordfence > login security and click disable two-factor.
Thanks to Metadata.mx Link